Radio Controlled Rocket Glider Kits
Welcome to the world of rocket boosted radio control gliders. This is not a model for a novice RC pilot, but anyone who is comfortable with RC flying of a medium speed model should be fine. This model has a very moderate glide and slow landing speed. Read through the instructions, look at the photos and be sure you understand the step before commiting to cutting or glue.
Lifting body Rocket glider instructions
Identify all pieces, the kit should contain:
1 lifting body wing taped together
2 Vertical stabs
Upper fuselage side view taped together
Lower fuselage side view taped together
Velcro(for battery and rx/bec attachment)
2 Rail buttons(2 washers, 2 collars, 2 screws, 2 plastic plugs) or 1 Launch lug and styrene strip
3M blenderm tape
1 Short and 2 long carbon wing spars.
Electric motor adapter
Notes before starting:
Reference to CA+ means foam safe CA+, normal CA+ will melt the foam! Normally you need to use accelerator to get the CA to set on the foam since there is nothing for it to soak into and activate.
You may use 320 grit sandpaper and a sanding block to slightly round the edges of the foam if you prefer that look. It will not markedly impact the flight performance either way. Be very careful and use a light touch, it is very easy to catch the foam on the edge of the paper and tear the foam.
Epoxy is not needed in this model. Weight is critical and the model is designed for the thrust and flight loads. Weight in the rear end is bad and will require additional weight in the front of the model.
These instructions are valid for all three versions of the lifting body kit. Only the shapes of the body and wing tips are different. The X-24A style and HL-10 Style wingtips will angle outward slightly, the X-20 style are vertical.
The basic construction is now complete.
Note: Your radio needs to be configured for Delta mixing, this means that the servo arms will move the same direction during elevator stick movement and opposite for aileron stick movement. Connect your servos to the receiver one in the aileron connection and one on the elevator connection and apply power. Use a servo arm at least 9/16” long and with holes small enough that there won’t be slop with the pushrod wire when installed. I use the hole furthest out on the servo arm, to maximize movement. On some servos there are a long two-ended servo arm, you can trim off one end if needed to get sufficient length. Zero out any trim settings on the transmitter. The model once the motor has burned out is nose heavy and flying wings lose pitch authority when nose heavy so you want as much up elevator travel for trim/flare as possible.
Lifting Body HL-10 Rocket Glider Kit
The lifting body kit is styed after actual lifting bodies from the 1960's. Instead of having normal winged surfaces which can over-heat during re-entry, these used the shape of the body to create sufficient lift to provide a controlled landing on a runway. Decent rate and angle were quite high, just like the space shuttle. These kits use a flat plate wing to simulate the body which gives them the look of the lifting body but a very light wing loading and easy to fly, gentle glide/landing characteristic.
Please refer to the notes on items needed for completion and flying, then read the instructions completely before starting assembly. The assembly photos are for general reference but may not include every step in the manual.
CG location for rocket flight 11 7/8" from the back or nozzle end of the motor mount tube, see the picture below..
(The electric flight adapter is not recommended for this model due to elevon/servo placement interfering with the propellor.)